I always begin the story of my country with its mountains. Kyrgyzstan is a land where mountains cover 95 percent of the territory. According to the United Nations, it is considered the most mountainous country in the world—a true home for mountaineers. Here, the ridges of the Alatau, Tien Shan, and Pamir ranges form more than forty major mountain chains. The country is home to around two thousand alpine lakes, dozens of waterfalls, and hundreds of scenic trekking and climbing routes. Seven-thousanders, six-thousanders, five- and four-thousanders—we have an endless multitude of summits, each revealing a new facet of this land.

Mountains shape about 60–65 percent of Kyrgyzstan’s tourism. Thousands of people visit us every year—some come to train, others to take their first steps in crampons, and some to pursue their own summit. Yet we still have much ahead of us: building infrastructure, routes, campsites, and a complete trekking atlas. In Nepal or the Andes, everything has long been established; we, however, are only at the beginning of our journey.

In Kyrgyzstan, the infrastructure for mountain tourism is advancing rapidly, with the construction of state-of-the-art ski resorts of global caliber, such as the tourist hubs of Zhyrgalan, Bozuchuk, and Ak-Bulak, which will form part of the mountain ski cluster known as the “Three Peaks.” There are also established routes for freeride, ski touring, and classic winter mountaineering. The mountains have become a magnet not only for athletes but also for travelers.

Mountaineering in Kyrgyzstan is the country’s hallmark. There are three of seven-thousanders—each distinctive. Khan Tengri (7,010 m) is my favorite peak—beautiful and sacred—a summit I once approached nearly alone. Jengish Chokusu, or Victory Peak (7,439 m), stands as the most challenging, demanding utmost composure. And the Lenin Peak (7,134 m) is the most accessible, attracting thousands of mountaineers every season. These three mountains encompass all the “superlatives” of the world—the most difficult, the most beautiful, and the most accessible summits.

These mountains have been my school, where I learned patience, humility, and responsibility. My personal climbing journey began exactly with them.

Eduard Kubatov is the President of the Mountaineering and Climbing Federation of Kyrgyzstan and one of the few people in the world to summit eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen. For him, altitude is both a test and a meditation on the limits of human endurance. Kubatov has been listed in the Guinness World Records as the oldest climber in history to ascend Manaslu (8,163 m) without oxygen.

Experience at Altitude

My first eight-thousander was Everest—a summit of immense significance and symbolism. Next came Annapurna, where I encountered the harsh reality of loss for the first time and realized how fragile life truly is. We lost friends, saw people die.

On August 11, I summited K2, a mountain I regard as the ultimate benchmark of difficulty. It was an arduous expedition: we waited interminably for a weather window and began our ascent almost at the very end of the permissible period. Out of 52 climbers, only 12 reached the summit, and three lost their lives. After K2, I became a different person.

Responsibility Toward the Mountains

I often say that mountains do not tolerate two mistakes: underestimating them, and overestimating yourself. The core tragedy of mountaineering revolves around these errors. Thus, within the Mountaineering Federation of Kyrgyzstan, we strive to enhance safety.

We are currently establishing a rescue training system—the “Edelweiss” team under the Emergency Ministry—and implementing a permit system for seven-thousanders, ensuring that only adequately prepared individuals ascend these challenging peaks, equipped with medical clearances, insurance, and GPS trackers.

Oxygen-Free Ascents:

• Everest, 8,848 m—in 2021
• Manaslu, 8,163 m—in 2022
• Lhotse, 8,516 m—in 2024
• Makalu, 8,485 m—in  2024
• Annapurna, 8,091 m—in 2025, known as the most dangerous peak in the world
• K2, 8,611 m—2025, regarded as the most challenging peak on Earth (officially recognized as a new national record of Kyrgyzstan in high-altitude mountaineering)

The Summit Within

We do not conquer the mountain; we ask its permission to let us pass and return back. Mountains have stood for millions of years before us and will remain long after. Humans are but fleeting moments. When we climb, we conquer not the mountain, but ourselves.

Memory and Accountability

The story of Natalia Nagovitsyna is the gravest reminder of the consequences when one overestimates their capabilities. She ascended Victory Peak injured and perished, followed by a rescuer and an Italian climber, Luca. One decision cost several lives. In the mountains, there is no room for heroism—only responsibility.

Legacy

Today, I have students making their first ascents of seven-thousanders. And perhaps, twenty years from now, someone will climb K2 without oxygen. I believe the mountains nurture generations of strong, honest, and thoughtful individuals.

The material was published in Travel+Leisure Central Asia magazine ( December 2025 – January 2026)