I arrived in Bukhara around nine in the morning. With the road behind me, a whole day stretched ahead. The streets echoed with the voices of vendors and the laughter of children running between stalls. The air was filled with the aromas of freshly baked bread and spices.
My first stop was the Ark, the ancient fortress and former residence of the emirs of Bukhara. From the outside, it looks massive and almost impregnable. As you walk up the sloping entrance, you begin to appreciate how carefully its defensive system was designed. The interior houses palaces, mosques, and utility buildings. I was especially impressed by the inner courtyards with their columns and arches, where rulers once lived. From above, there is a sweeping view of the old quarters and the domes of the madrasahs. You can clearly see how closely the madrasahs and mosques stand to one another. Bukhara turns out to be surprisingly compact.
After that, I headed to Lyabi-Hauz, a complex built around a large pool surrounded by madrasahs. The water was cool, reflecting turquoise tiles and the shadows of the trees. People sat along the edges, chatting and enjoying the day. I decided to have lunch at one of the nearby chaikhanas.
The menu offered several varieties of plov: the classic Bukhara version, one with chickpeas and raisins, and another with quail eggs. The waiter immediately mentioned that the plov is prepared with zigir yogi, flaxseed oil with a dense, slightly tart flavor. It gives the rice a darker color and a distinctive aroma, making Bukhara plov different from the Tashkent version, with a taste that is deeper and richer.
Photo: Freepik
Next, I made my way to the Poi-Kalyan ensemble. The Kalyan Minaret immediately draws the eye, rising above the city and visible from afar. Up close, its intricate brickwork is especially striking, with ornamentation that changes tier by tier. The tower is taller than it appears in photographs, and I stood for a long time studying its patterns. They say the minaret survived the Mongol invasion because Genghis Khan, impressed by its scale, ordered it to be preserved. Even if this is only a legend, the structure remains breathtaking.
The final stop of the day was the Mir-i Arab Madrasah, which is still active today. Students study here, and its façades and domes retain their 16th-century appearance. Realizing that it has continued to function for several centuries is astonishing.
In the evening, I returned to a chaikhana and ordered tandoor chicken. The spices and rosemary gave it a fragrant aroma; the crust was beautifully browned, while the meat inside remained juicy. After such a full day, it was exactly what I needed.
Later, I simply wandered through the streets of the old city without a particular destination. I peeked into courtyards, examined wooden doors, and admired ceramics displayed in small shops. It was then that I began to notice details that never appear in photographs. By the end of the day, I was physically tired, yet I felt that my acquaintance with Bukhara was only just beginning.
