In 2008, I, along with 58 other students from Uzbekistan, received a scholarship to study at Lanzhou University. An adventure? Absolutely. A sudden leap into the unknown that promised to turn everything upside down.

A city of paradoxes

Lanzhou – the cradle of Chinese civilization, yet one of the least developed among the country’s major cities. Here, the Yellow River flows, noodles simmer – and Lanzhou University ranks among the elite institutions of China. While the city once held importance along the Silk Road, the true gateway lies in Xi’an. Back when I was a student-traveler, it lived in my dreams.

Xi’an is like a secret-filled jewelry box – opening in a new way each time. It’s easily reachable by train from Beijing (4.5 hours).

Xi’an

I’ve been here five times. My first visits were a whirlwind of sightseeing; later ones became a search for something personal, my own favorite places. Last year’s trip was particularly special. I chose a hotel overlooking the Muslim Quarter, with its maze of alleyways and coffee shops – the perfect setting for evening strolls and recalling familiar tastes. I rediscovered Xi’an and felt it with all my heart.

One of the most memorable moments was visiting the Terracotta Army and hiking up Mount Huashan (entry – $17).

The Terracotta Army

Though countless photos exist, seeing it in person exceeds all expectations. The scale, the energy, the silent grandeur… It’s astonishing, surreal, haunting, spectacular. It makes one reflect. Like living warriors transformed into clay. The eternal army of China’s first emperor, Qin Shi Huang.

In the morning, buses ($2) run from the railway station to the Terracotta Army and the emperor’s tomb. Plan for a full day – there are plenty of visitors, and movement is slow.

Mount Huashan

After visiting Xi’an, we set our sights on conquering Mount Huashan. Bold, but youth is all about thrill. The options: a cable car to the North or West Peaks or… to hike. Full-on adventure. We wanted to see everything, to miss nothing. No easy routes. Start at 3 p.m., goal – by sunset. A naive calculation, as it turned out. The first two hours – photo shoot at every bush, goofing around. Four hours in, the enthusiasm had faded. We kept asking passersby how much farther it was to the top. They only smiled enigmatically. Only later did we realize that in those four hours we’d covered just 30% of the trail. And the sunset… it had slipped beyond the horizon.

We kept going, no big deal, we’d catch the sunrise instead. Everyone walked in silence, and during our short breaks, elderly Chinese hikers passing by would say: “Don’t stop – even if you’re slow, move slowly but continuously. If you pause, you’ll run out of strength.” Apparently, that was the right approach, because they didn’t look tired at all. Instead of the planned four, our hike lasted 11 hours. The closer we got to the summit, the colder it became. We weren’t prepared for that outcome at all, and we’d brought barely any food.

Closer to the top, everything got more expensive very quickly, especially water. For example, we got instant noodles at one of the cafés and waited for hot water. When it didn’t come, we asked the waiter – and he said, “ Hot water too? That costs extra…” So we had to buy hot water. It was the most expensive instant noodles of my life. We paid 40 yuan ($6); for comparison, down below the same thing costs just 5 yuan. We hiked through the night, completely unaware of how dangerous the trail actually was – we only realized it the next day. As it turns out, Mount Huashan is considered the most dangerous mountain in China due to its narrow paths, hanging bridges, and sheer cliffs.

The sunrise made up for all the unexpected hardships.

Five mountain peaks

One of the five sacred mountains of Daoism in China, it comprises five main peaks. The East Peak is the best spot to watch the sunrise, the West Peak is the most scenic, the South Peak is the tallest (2,154 meters), the North Peak is the most accessible thanks to the cable car, and the Central Peak is shrouded in ancient legends.

If you prepare and plan properly, the climb up Mount Huashan is guaranteed to be one of the most unforgettable. And it’s even more impressive than the famous “Avatar mountains.”

Xi’an is a relatively small city – by Chinese standards. That’s why it’s rare to go wrong when booking accommodation. The best places to stay are inside the city walls or near the Bell Tower ($50-80).

Muslim Quarter

Be sure to visit the Muslim Quarter. Life here awakens at dusk. It’s the heart of Xi’an’s street food scene and the cultural center of the Hui people – Chinese Muslims. Imagine, for over a millennium, this spot has been a vibrant trading hub. As in the heyday of the Silk Road, the atmosphere here is that of an Eastern bazaar: scents of spices, varieties of souvenirs, and throngs of people. Don’t miss your chance to try Xi’an dumplings, roujiamo – a local-style burger, and liangpi – refreshing cold noodles with sesame sauce and crunchy cucumbers (a meal here costs $2-5 on average).

I recommend that history enthusiasts – and just about everyone – visit the Great Mosque of Xi’an, one of China’s oldest mosques, built back in 742 CE.

Xi’an is an incredibly cozy city,  unhurried, calm, and unpretentious. It has weathered all the storms of history, not only enduring, but preserving its charm. I’m sure I’ll return here more than once to immerse myself in its atmosphere again.