Photography by Vagar Ahmad, Visit Alatau
We escaped the sweltering 40-degree heat of Tashkent and headed into the mountains of Kazakhstan at the invitation of Visit Alatau. Nature greeted us with unexpected hospitality: the mountains welcomed us with cool air, rain, and rainbow. The temperature was perfect, though by the calendar, chilla—the peak of summer heat had not yet ended. We were on a two-day tour and were told we were lucky—just the day before, the region had been melting under the sun.
Our journey to the Kolsai Lakes and Kaindy took us along smooth asphalt roads—a surprise in itself and the landscapes were just as impressive: steppes, hills, canyons. We made two stops: the first was to buy shubat (fermented camel milk) and sample different varieties of kurt right at a roadside stall; the second was at a large caravanserai—complete with a shop, café, and restrooms.
The Kolsai Lakes are located within the Kolsai Kolderi Nature Park and are considered one of the region’s most popular tourist destinations. These are three vividly turquoise lakes nestled in the northern Tien Shan Mountains, at an altitude of around two thousand meters. Three crystal-clear basins of water in the mountains, they appear as if someone had scattered a necklace of emeralds across the gorges.
It felt as though the entire metropolis of Almaty had gathered here. The parking lot was jam-packed. People arrived in families, couples, with children and without. There are piers, gazebos, cafés, and terraces where visitors can enjoy a coffee and take shelter from the rain. As we descended the wooden walkway toward the lake, a heavy cloud rolled in overhead and a downpour began. Five minutes later, it had turned into a “blind rain”—and a rainbow arched across the sky.
We only visited the lower lake, surrounded by a coniferous forest of Tien Shan fir, its depth reaching 57 meters. Rainbow trout can even be found here, with occasional splashes visible above the water’s surface.
In sunlight, the water shimmered turquoise; as soon as the sun slipped behind the clouds, it turned a deep emerald. To explore the lake, we rented a catamaran (approximately $22). The calm, glassy water, the silence—a rare sensation of tranquility. Only the thought of making it back before sunset drew us away from the pier.
After our outing, we returned to the village of Saty. Recognized by the United Nations World Tourism Organization (UNWTO) as one of the best villages globally, Saty currently leads in the number of guesthouses. The small guesthouses here are simple yet cozy: for $17, we were welcomed with clean bedding, three meals a day, Wi-Fi, and a hot shower. We were personally greeted by the host of one of the houses—Hayat Grand—a stocky, modest man named Bagdad. His wife, Farida, runs the kitchen herself: on our first evening, she prepared a gentle plov called shavlya, and the next day we enjoyed a hearty roast for dinner. When I mentioned to the host that I needed to work on the article, he brought a table and chair to my room. I gifted him a copy of our magazine, and he touched it first to his forehead, seemingly wishing silently that his establishment would be featured within its pages. So, 300 kilometers from Almaty, in the village of Saty, one can find our magazine. My room had five beds, and choosing which one to lie on, I felt like Snow White among the dwarfs.
Day Two
The following day, after breakfast, the plan was to visit Lake Kaindy (which translates from Kazakh as “Birch Lake”). While my scrambled eggs were being prepared, I stepped outside to the gate. Opposite was a parking lot for city vehicles. It turned out that visitors leave their cars here and transfer to “bukhankas”—UAZ vans, since it’s impossible to reach the lake in a regular car. Soon enough, one such “bukhanka” arrived for us. Fifteen minutes later, the vehicle left the smooth highway, and I became like a ping-pong ball trapped inside a washing machine drum. The rough ride amused me, especially when I saw that I wasn’t the only one barely holding onto the seat. Along the way, the driver stopped several times to pick up more tourists: first a group from Poland, then some young people from Almaty. My heart skipped a beat whenever the vehicle edged along the brink of a cliff—but that only heightened the thrill. Upon reaching the end of the “road,” we ventured into the forest along a descending trail. At the fork stood a makeshift kiosk offering simple snacks and a restroom. On journeys like this, restrooms are a rare luxury. Whereas in Europe one pays one euro per visit, here the cost was 100 tenge (roughly 19 cents).
Lake Kaindy—Like a Frozen Fairy Tale. Lake Kaindy was formed after a powerful earthquake in 1911. At an altitude of 1,867 meters, a basin about 600 meters long and up to 24 meters deep appeared right in the gorge. Since then, the water has seemingly preserved an entire forest—birch and fir trunks still protrude from the depths like silent witnesses of that catastrophe. The icy water never warms above six degrees Celsius, even in summer, lending the lake an added aura of mystery. Although modest in size, the image of the crystal-clear surface with the submerged forest beneath will remain etched in memory forever. We descended to the water’s edge, where several spots for photography are available: piers and terraces. Visitors lined up patiently to capture the perfect shot. I found myself captivated by a family of tourists from China, who seemed to have rehearsed their poses at home—they posed so gracefully. When it was our turn, I attempted to imitate their elegance. The water was frigid; swimming is forbidden here. I dipped my hand in and traced my wet fingers across my face: I had been here.
Then we climbed to the upper viewpoint, where a breathtaking panorama unfolded: bare birch trunks jutted from the water like frozen sentinels. The view from above was mesmerizing. I sat beside the Chinese woman, frozen in meditation. I had to rouse her gently, though I too wished to linger, to savor the moment and soak in the happiness. Around us, pine needles, the scent of recent rain’s washed over the landscape in waves, and the aroma of the forest was intoxicating.
On the way back, our guide gathered raspberries for us. It turns out that this area is abundant with berries—sea buckthorn, raspberry, wild strawberry, currant, and numerous medicinal plants. Just a couple of hours here was enough to understand that enduring the journey’s hardships was entirely worthwhile. Even Dimash chose these locations for filming his music video.
On our return, we stopped at the guesthouse to collect our luggage, stocked up on water, said farewell to the hosts, and set off for Almaty, brimming with impressions and delight.
