I’ve been guiding travelers through the mountains of Tajikistan for over a decade, and whenever someone asks me about my favorite place, I don’t hesitate: it’s Nezhigon. The name means “eyelash” in Tajik, and when you see it nestled between steep cliffs, it’s easy to understand why—it looks like a half-closed eye.

We reach the lake by off-road vehicles, driving a narrow road from Panjakent through Sufien and Yangi Kishlak. Sometimes the journey takes two to three hours, other times half a day.

Nezhigon is the first of the seven Marguzor Lakes. It’s not big, measuring just 700 meters in length and around 100 meters across. At an altitude of 1,640 meters, the air is special—its scent is unlike any other.

And then there’s the water—it changes its coloring depending on the hour. In the morning, it shimmers turquoise; by midday, it turns a deep, inky blue. As evening approaches, violet reflections dance across its surface, even the foam takes on color, thanks to the lake’s rich mineral content.

Snow-capped mountain peaks tower above the lake, glowing like halos on sunny days.

And yes—you can swim here. The water is cool and refreshing, especially in July. Usually, the men go in first to test it, and then the women follow—with laughter and cheerful screams.

After Nezhigon, we hike higher up to a ridge where the best view of the lake unfolds. I always give people a moment to pause here, because leaving Nezhigon always feels just a little too soon.